Solar dos Presuntos

On Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, the street Lisbon knows for its restaurants: Solar dos Presuntos. It opened its doors on 30 October 1974 and is still in the same family's hands. The line around the rim of the plates sums up the house: “Quem entra nesta casa entra na sua casa” — whoever enters this house enters their own.

A smart, serious place. The wine opened at the next table said it on its own: the neck of the bottle was heated with hot tongs and the glass cracked clean off.

The name comes from the ham, and the kitchen from the Minho. What arrives first says as much: finely sliced presunto, sheep's cheese, green olives with garlic, butter, bread. The ham is carved in the dining room, on the counter.

But this is a seafood house too. Oysters, grilled lobster, a king crab the size of two hands; whatever comes off the grill arrives in its pan. The fish as well: grilled whole, with grelos and smashed potatoes.

The meat side is not neglected either: roast kid with yellow rice and roast potatoes.

A glass of port goes well at the end.

Address: R. das Portas de Santo Antão 150 (next to the Elevador do Lavra), 1150-269 Lisbon.