Kyoto, Japan

Kentan Horibe is a chef's restaurant in Kyoto whose accomplished cooking has been crowned with a Michelin star. Dishes are prepared in front of you at a small counter for eight.

Before you go you're sent a briefing with various rules: don't come wearing heavy perfume, keep tattoos covered, no shorts or sandals, don't put your phone on the counter when you sit down.

At Kentan Horibe the cooking is at the highest level, but the experience from start to finish is wonderful too. The most striking moment was fish brought to us alive in a tank and then grilled and served.

An eight-course menu built from what the chef sources that day gives you the chance to taste a real range.