Taverna 37

South of Athens, in Vouliagmeni, in the Four Seasons Astir Palace's own cove: Taverna 37. It is nothing like the classic hotel restaurant; right on Athens's doorstep, it carries the air of a Greek island. Rush chairs, marble tables, and a step away from the table the rocks and water clear to the bottom.

The menu is built on the Greek classics: dakos, choriatiki, kolokythokeftedes (courgette patties), fried calamari, octopus, grilled sea bass and grouper; the fish of the day comes grilled or baked in a crust of salt.

We started with the calamari and the courgette patties — one arrives with tarama, the other with minted yoghurt. Then the saganaki: prawns baked with tomato, red pepper, feta and ouzo, brought to the table in its dish.

Ouzo over ice in the glass, the lights of the boats on the far shore.