Hosteria Grappolo D'Oro

Roman pasta is built on the base of cacio e pepe. Made with nothing but egg, black pepper and pecorino romano, it may be the world's simplest and most delicious pasta. Add guanciale to that base and it becomes carbonara; add tomato and guanciale and it becomes all'amatriciana.

You'll find these pastas on every corner in Rome, but we'd say we ate the best at Hosteria Grappolo d'Oro, where locals took us.

This small place near Piazza Navona has made the Michelin guide. The panzanella, polpette di bollito and parmigiana di zucchine we tried to start were wonderful too.

For a pleasant, not-very-touristy meal in Rome, Grappolo d'Oro is a good option.