Hodan

Hodan began its life in Çukurcuma, in Beyoğlu, and earned itself a particular place in İstanbul's food scene along the way. It now sits at a new address in Nişantaşı.

In its old historic building in Beyoğlu, Hodan was known for chef Çiğdem Seferoğlu's cooking and its focus on local producers and seasonal produce. Nişantaşı carries on in exactly the same spirit.

This time we went for the Sunday brunch. From the cheeses and olives to the charcuterie and the hot dishes, everything has been chosen with care, and the quality and freshness of the produce show immediately.

The star of the day, though, was the su böreği. Paper-thin layers, a soft texture and just the right amount of butter — one of the best we have had in a long time. It alone is reason enough to go back.

One of the nicest surprises of the brunch is the Antep-style liver served with a glass of Prosecco. It is an unusual thing to meet at breakfast, but it suits Hodan, and the pair turns a classic Sunday breakfast into a thoroughly enjoyable lunch.

There is also an open dessert buffet. Between the variety and the care in the presentation, it is impossible to get up without trying a few, however full you already are.

With its good produce, its traditional flavours and its unconventional idea of brunch, Hodan has made it onto our list of Sunday favourites.