Tersane İstanbul

Em Sherif is one of the best global ambassadors of Lebanese cooking. A few months ago it opened its eighth branch outside Beirut, inside Tersane İstanbul.

Lebanese food resembles our southern and south-eastern cooking, but there are of course differences. To my mind hummus is the single most important product of Lebanese cuisine. I have not seen the texture and flavour of Em Sherif's hummus anywhere within our borders — it was genuinely excellent. Beyond the hummus, the tabbouleh, falafel, artichoke salad and flatbreads were all superb. We didn't get the chance, but the grilled main courses looked very good too.

While we're here, a word on Tersane İstanbul itself. A very enjoyable space has emerged; we don't think there's another shopping development in Istanbul set on this much land with this much open air. Tersane's weak point is access — we went at midday on a weekday with no trouble, but we hear there are difficulties at weekends. City Lines has built a pier, and once that comes into service it will be a good alternative.